theft across the global apparel supply chain very likely exceeds half a billion dollars. The
figure is sure to rise as the pandemic and its economic consequences continue to unfold.
A Chronic Failure of Leading Brands to Ensure Workers Are Paid the Money They Earn
Severance theft during the pandemic is an acute manifestation of a long-standing failure of
apparel brands and retailers to ensure that the workers in their supply chains are paid what
they are legally owed when they lose their jobs. Over the last 15 years, the WRC, among
other organizations, has exposed dozens of cases of large-scale severance theft at garment
factories.8 Virtually every major apparel brand and retailer has been implicated.
These historical violations, like those occurring in the midst of the pandemic, represent
the failure of brands and retailers to uphold
their own labor standards. Every significant
apparel brand and retailer has a self-generated labor rights code of conduct. Virtually without exception, these codes commit the brand
to ensure that supplier factories pay all legally
mandated wages and benefits. Despite this,
brands and retailers chronically fail to ensure
that severance is paid, with catastrophic consequences for workers. Brands and retailers
themselves acknowledge the high incidence
of severance theft in their supply chains. For
example, in 2012, adidas, facing criticism over
nonpayment at a large garment factory in Indonesia, defended itself by pointing out that
nonpayment of severance is so common in
that country that the large majority of garment and footwear workers are not paid the full
compensation they are legally owed when they lose their jobs.9
Across all factories
in our data set,
we estimate
that 160,000
workers have lost
$171.5 million to
severance theft.
In some past cases of severance theft, public pressure on factory owners and brands, or the
enforcement of contractual brand obligations, has led to back pay that has made workers
whole. In others, workers never received their full severance.
Solutions: Immediate and Long-Term
It is imperative that brands and retailers, in all cases where dismissed workers have not been
paid what they are legally owed, step in and ensure full payment, whether by compelling the
relevant suppliers to pay or by providing the funds themselves. The WRC will press brands,
in the 31 confirmed cases covered in this report, to make workers whole and will engage on
other cases where feasible.
However, the problem is far broader than this immediate set of cases, and it will continue to
plague garment workers long after the pandemic unless fundamental change is achieved.
Labor unions and advocacy organizations have proposed that brands and retailers sign a
WRC
yz
Fired, Then Robbed
zy
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