Many experts believe the pandemic has illuminated the exploitative nature of the
world’s garment supply chains, which have undergone a radical transformation in
recent decades.
“The fashion industry is at root an exploitative system based on the exploitation of a
low-paid and undervalued workforce in producing countries,” according to Dominique
Muller at Labour Behind the Label.
“The system is created in order to protect those at the top while allowing workers to
take the biggest hit.”
‘Empty promises’
From the 1970s onwards, globalisation shifted clothing production from western
Europe and North America to the Global South. Garment workers, who were
previously direct employees of the major brands, became distant actors in complex
global supply chains. In turn, major fashion brands no longer faced a legal obligation
to pay fair wages or o er employment bene ts.
With exploitatively low salaries, garment workers in the Global South have for years
struggled to survive. Saving for emergencies was near impossible, meaning they had
nothing to fall back on when the COVID-19 pandemic hit.
“Consumers should never forget this era and what the brands have done with
workers,” said Kalpona Akter, the executive director of the Bangladesh Center for
Workers Solidarity. “When the time came for them to have our back they left us
starving.”
“COVID has shown us the reality of empty promises from businesses, from brands,
retailers and manufacturers,” Kalpona continued. “The workers made them pro ts for
years, and gave them a lavish life, but when the pandemic started they just left the
workers to starve.”